LIVING LIKE A ROYAL
I had checked into the peaceful Amansara resort the day before. A meticulously organized program for the following four days awaited me in my suite, promising a thorough experience of Cambodian culture and solitary visits to Siem Reap's cultural attractions.
Amansara was established for the Cambodian royal family in the 1960s and was previously King Norodum Sihanouk's guesthouse. During the property's history, notable guests have included French President Charles de Gaulle and former US First Lady Jackie Kennedy. Recently, actress Angelina Jolie has been a frequent visitor to Amansara.
A canopy of trees and gardens surrounds the property. There are only 24 suites on the property, so my stay was even more exclusive because I was the only guest for the first two nights. This allowed me to engage in a number of interesting talks with the resort's welcoming staff.
EMPTY TEMPLE VISITS AND CHANNELING LARA CROFT
At the break of dawn, I found myself on my way to Angkor Wat. The excursions at Amansara start early in the morning to avoid the throng. With tourists slowly returning to Siem Reap, the sense of seclusion was amplified tenfold.
Prior to my journey, I'd heard rumors of an empty Angkor Wat, and on the day of my visit, after approaching the complex through a forested road from the East Gate, I noticed just a tiny crowd gathered in front of the iconic reflecting pool, waiting for the sunrise. The entire grass would have been crowded to the brim with tourists prior to the pandemic. But now there's no need to fight for that perfect Instagram shot.
We arrived at our next destination, the Ta Prohm temple, before 9 a.m. because we started our day early. Ta Prohm is most known for its appearance in Angelina Jolie's 2001 film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.
While Angkor Wat has been meticulously kept over time, Ta Prohm has been left to its own devices for decades. Silk cotton plants have taken root here, piercing their way through the crumbling masonry. This simply contributed to the beauty of the scene and served as a somber reminder that nature will always have the final say.
A TOUR OF AN ANCIENT CITY AND RIVER VILLAGE
The third day began early as well, with the goal of exploring the enormous ancient city of Angkor Thom. The Bayon temple, located in the heart of the complex, is famous for its mysterious smiling faces, which have piqued people's interest for decades.
At the Baphuon temple, I found myself alone once more. The temple workers' talk resonated around the compound because it was so silent. Chay persuaded me to investigate Baphuon's top levels by climbing up the incredibly steep stairs. He joked, "If something happens to you at the top, just shout and I'll hear you."
I was treated to a private lunch cruise along Tonle Sap onboard the Amanbala, Amansara's wooden boat, to cap off my stay in Siem Reap. I couldn't help but notice several empty tour boats parked near the riverbank as I boarded the ship.
Tonle Sap, Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake connected to the Mekong river system, was a booming tourist destination prior to the outbreak. But, for the time being, it was entirely mine to explore.